The San Juans, the Rocky Mountains of southwestern Colorado, are sparsely populated. The mining industry, once common throughout the region, provided the foundation for the booming tourism industry. Skiing and other mountain related sports have taken over many of the small towns that at one time served the mining industry. The southern and central Rockies were major mining areas for zinc, silver, iron ore, gold, copper. lead, molybdenum, petroleum, coal and natural gas.

Natural beauty intertwined with human history can best describe the shaping of life in the San Juan Mountains today. The deserts to the west abruptly clash with the skyward reaching peaks carved by glaciers, wind, water and volcanic flow. The ancient culture of the Anasazi people left behind a rich history in the San Juans, and the Navajo and Ute Indians have added to that. They have lived here for generations and still inhabit the foothills. The influences of these cultures and the ever-changing dramatic scenery tend to enchant those who visit.

The San Juan Mountains were at one time a booming region for mining, but only small remnants of these times remain. Ghost towns can still be found tucked away and hidden in the shadows of the San Juan Mountains. Fortunately, this mining era left behind a means for enjoying the interior of the mountains – mining roads. These old mining roads in no way make it possible to explore in the comfort of an RV or family car but rather confined to 4×4 vehicles. The dirt, rocky and pot-holed roads make it a roller coaster ride and add to the excitement of exploring in the heart of a true wilderness where you face the elements on their terms. Sound like fun? It is.

Before I begin, I think it’s important to talk about the commitment of venturing into the mountains in 4×4 country. Wildflower season is the height of summer thunderstorm season and you will encounter rain. Be prepared, and know what to do if you’re in the mountains during one of these thunderstorms. Never take lightly a rain shower that could turn into a heavy thunder and lightening storm. Driving on mining roads requires a 4×4 vehicle. I suggest some experience driving in 4×4 conditions, as you will be climbing rough roads regardless of their classification. 4×4 roads have five different classifications: Class 1, easy; Class 2, moderately difficult; Class 3, difficult; Class 4, very difficult; Class 5, use extreme caution. Literature is available in most local bookstores and tourists offices giving classifications of different roads, and I do suggest checking before driving the roads to make sure you’re confident of your ability to drive in these conditions. You’ll find route suggestions for your trip in 4WD Adventures Colorado, by Peter Massey and Jeanne Wilson. I don’t recommend attempting to drive these backcountry roads into the mountain passes before sunrise, and give yourself plenty of time to get off the roads before dark. There’s really no need to be on location before sunrise or after sunset.

PHOTOGRAPHERS VIEW

Truly a wonderful experience, the wildflower meadows and mountain scenery of the San Juan Mountains are a memorable journey. I have conducted several photography workshops in these mountains, and participants walk away excited and energized, as much from the experience as they do the photography. I recommend the San Juans to all who enjoy the solitude and beauty of the mountains. My warning in the beginning of this article is to be taken seriously but not to frighten anyone away. If you aren’t comfortable with driving in this environment, there are other options, such as photography workshops. Or one of several outfitters in the Ouray area can arrange quality time in the alpine meadows.

You will experience elevations your body may find challenging. Take your time and within a couple days your body will acclimate to the elevation change. Most of your photography will take place within eye sight of your vehicle. There is really little need to hold back on equipment. You can load up on your camera gear and take into the field what you need and leave the rest in your vehicle. Long telephotos aren’t necessary unless you plan on photographing the little critters of the mountains, marmots and pikas. There are plenty, and you’ll need at least a 400mm lens. It’s not really worth the hassle of carrying these long lenses through the airports for what little use you will get from them. You’ll be using wide angle to medium telephotos (24mm – 100mm) most of the time, but make sure you’re covered to 200mm. As I mentioned before, be prepared for rain. You will encounter rain during the the summer wildflower season. Bring rain gear for both you and your camera gear. Take advantage of these light drizzles. You might find some nice water droplets reflecting surrounding colors or another creative opportunity. Down pours are a different story – wait these out in your vehicle. Overcast light is perfect for flower photography, and you’ll probably experience more of this than you will bright sunlight. Always bring along a diffuser when your goal is flower close-ups. You might never use it, but if you don’t have one, you’ll need it.

Crested Butte

Technically, Crested Butte isn’t part of the San Juan Mountains but rather the western edge of the Sawatch Range in the Gunnison National Forest. I use Crested Butte for my first couple of days of shooting for three reasons. First, the wildflowers are predictable and in great abundance. Second, Crested Butte is at a good elevation to begin getting acclimated, and third, it’s a good location to get acquainted with off road driving as these roads are Class 1 and 2 and easy to drive.

Crested Butte is made up of rolling hills, valleys and meadows more than it is of rugged mountain terrain. The hillsides and valleys fill every summer with some of the most predictable wildflower blooms in all of Colorado. The window for good wildflowers is not long, but with a little planning you can catch the peak or near peak bloom. The second and third weeks of July have typically been the best times, but as with anything in the outdoors, Mother Nature has the final say. The best time of day for photographic opportunities in Crested Butte – or for that matter throughout the San Juans – is the morning. Don’t pass up a nice overcast sky when the opportunity presents itself, usually when the afternoon showers move in.

I suggest finding a good topographic map with forest roads and highlight several routes that are an easy drive into Gunnison national Forest from Crested Butte. One of my favorite drives is a circle route beginning on Forest Road 317 (also called Gothic Road) from Mt. Crested Butte through the old town of Gothic and Schofield pass to Paradise Divide, at 11,250 feet. I eventually make my way back to Crested Butte. Forest road 317 begins where the only road through Crested Butte ends. You can also do this route in the opposite direction. This gives you the opportunity to get early morning light in both directions. The entry point for driving this route in the opposite direction begins on Washington Gulch Road (gravel road) on the west side of the main road connecting Crested Butte with Mt. Crested Butte. The drive between these towns is a quick three to four minutes, and the turn is about halfway in between. There are two wonderful reflection lakes on this route: one called Emerald lake just beyond the town of Gothic coming from Mt. Crested Butte, and the other at the crest of Paradise Divide. Both lakes sit next to the road. The lake at Paradise Divide has no known name but is the prettier of the two. This lake has three great angles to photograph; two of the three are mirror reflections of the surrounding mountains. One of these reflection shots is an evening shoot. Wildflowers can be found almost anywhere along this route. Two-grooved milk vetch, lupine, magenta paintbrush, columbine, larkspur and cow parsnip are all common throughout the region. One of the best locations for an abundance of Aspen sunflowers and arrowleaf balsamroot is the very beginning of  of Forest Road 317 just outside of Mt Crested Butte looking back into the valley toward Crested Butte. These yellow flowers make great foreground subjects with the valley and mountains in the background.

Ouray

Ouray is the gateway community to many of the beautiful mountain passes in the San Juans. Ouray offers me everything I need to satisfy my thirst for backcountry mountain photography. From here I can begin one of several great backcountry drives each morning and fill an entire day with excellent photo opportunities and still make it back before dark. I will briefly discuss three locations I find predictable and reasonably safe out of Ouray. These are in no way the only backcountry roads you can reach out of Ouray. During your information gathering you will come across others that may sound inviting, but the ones I will discuss are proven to produce good results.

Yankee Boy Basin

Getting to Yankee Boy Basin is very easy. Follow Highway 550 out of Ouray southbound, and turn onto the gravel road leading to Box Canyon Falls. This road is called Camp Bird Road. Continue up this road into Yankee Boy Basin, passing the old mining area of Camp Bird. The higher the climb into the basin the more difficult the road becomes for driving. There is no need to follow the road to its end. You will know when you have come far enough; the flowers will tell you to stop.

Yankee Boy Basin is the most popular and maybe even the best location for all-around alpine photography with an abundance of wildflowers and incredible mountain vistas. The drive to Yankee Boy Basin is relatively easy (Class 1 road). Yankee Boy Basin is very popular, therefore you won’t be alone. Many of the Ouray outfitters make this one of their featured destinations. There is plenty of room to spread out, so don’t worry about crowding.

Wildflowers in Yankee Boy Basin are as colorful and in as great variety as any in Colorado. Columbine, magenta paintbrush, mountain bluebell, bittercress and many others cover the meadows in a delicate array of bright colors. Small cascades are hidden in grasses with flowers hanging in precarious positions along stream edges. twin Falls is very noticeable as you enter into Yankee Boy Basin. This waterfall can be shot from several angles, and in a good year can be found with patches of flowers along the streambed.

Imogene Pass

Imogene Pass may prove to be one of the most dramatic drives you choose in the San Juan Mountains. This is truly an exciting journey through the heart of the southern Rockies on a Class4/5 route. You can choose your starting point of Imogene in either Ouray or Telluride. If you’re lodging in Ouray, it makes sense to begin your route here and end in Telluride, returning back to Ouray via developed roads. Or you can choose to return on another backcountry road over Opher Pass. To reach Opher from Telluride, follow State Road 145 south for about eight miles. The junction for Opher Pass is on the east side of the road.

Imogene Pass has several steep climbs as you near the summit and begin your descent into Telluride or Ouray. The peak of Imogene will put you at a breathtaking 13,114 feet with incredible views of Mt. Sneffels and other surrounding peaks in the north and the colorful Red Mountain Pass to the southeast. I suggest you begin your journey early and enjoy it at a leisurely pace. There are several meadows and waterfalls along the route toward the summit. The Ouray side of imogene Pass is the more photogenic and will require more time. Keep in mind the chances of afternoon thunderstorms. Your descent into Telluride might be slow as there are typically many vehicles sharing the narrow road.

Wildflowers along Imogene Pass are pretty much the same as those you find in Yankee Boy Basin. You will more than likely have some cloud cover providing overcast light, but have your diffuser just in case. With the exception of the summit, you won’t have great vistas of distant mountains. You will find flower patterns and small intimate scenes are your better photo opportunities here. There are several streams, cascades and a couple waterfalls along the way but, unlike Yankee Boy Basinn, few flowers surrounding the water source.

American Basin

American Basin rivals Yankee Boy when it comes to its wildflower display, but the surrounding peaks are not as dramatic. Driving to American Basin requires special attention to your map. The drive is not difficult if you follow your map carefully and look for signs at the backcountry intersections. Follow Highway 550 south out of Ouray (approximately three miles), and look for Alpine Loop trailhead. You will see a gravel parking area on the lefthand side of a hairpin turn on 550; this is the entrance onto the backcountry road of Alpine Loop. Follow this road toward Engineer pass. Do Not turn left at the first major road intersection. This will put you on the road to Poughkeepsie Gulch. This is an extremely difficult road to drive and can be dangerous for those not experienced in 4 x 4 conditions. Continue on toward Engineer Pass until you come to a second intersection, and turn right away from Engineer Pass toward Cinnamon Pass. The road to Cinnamon Pass will take you to American Basin. American Basin can also be reached via Lake City but is a long drive from Ouray.

American Basin is an incredible journey and very much worth the effort. For the spirit of adventure and for those who wish to hike beyond the roads in American Basin, there’s the American Basin trail leading up to Sloan Lake with magnificent views of Handies Peak and the surrounding basin. If hiking interests you, consider American basin as your final destination. This should allow your body plenty of time to acclimate.

Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene pass and American basin have but a few of the many wonderful backcountry roads. If you have an extra day or two, you should have no problem finding additional passes to explore. Local people are very helpful and knowledgeable of backcountry roads and wildflower conditions throughout the region. If you get a bad weather day, consider exploring Owl Creek Pass or areas where you can travel in lower elevations. Owl Creek is a very easy drive and doesn’t require a 4 x 4 vehicle.

When to Go

The wildflowers in the high elevations of the San Juan Mountains are at their peak from about the third week of July through the first week of August. This window varies, but for the most part it’s predictable. The lower elevations throughout the San Juans can see wildflowers throughout the month of July. Crested Butte peaks a week or two before the higher elevations and makes a worthwhile trip before you head into the mountains. The best scenario based on my experience is to arrive in Crested Butte during the early part of the third week in July and move on to Ouray after a couple of days. I’d rather be in Crested Butte during the peak in that area and maybe a little on the front side of the peak in Yankee Boy Basin and other San Juan locations. You’ll still be greeted by a wonderful display there, but Crested Butte loses its appeal when the flowers are beyond peak and begin to look wilted.

I hope this post encourages you to visit and photograph in the San Juan Mountains. It is a great wildflower destination and well worth the hard work getting to the locations. Do travel smart and safe if you head in this direction. Until next post, Good Luck.

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